Full BOM

This section is a simple list of off the shelf components that were either designed for something like this project or items I purchased off of Amazon and hacked apart for this build (hubs and speakers). I tried to stick with Amazon for most of the orders due to convenience in my area. It is likely that some of the Amazon links could result in unavailable items as cheap electronics tend to come and go on Amazon. After this device was fully built I went ahead and purchased some spare parts in the case that future replacements are required and become unavailable. You can head over to the 3D Files for a list of printed parts and pieces. My GH repo contains the 3D files as well as other assets and scripts used for this project.

Key Components

Item	Notes
Raspberry Pi Model 4B	SBC. Decided on an 8GiB model so it could actually be a somewhat usable device.
Waveshare UPS HAT (E)	The heart of this builds power system. It consists of a 5V secondary output feed via Type-A USB to the powered hub taking load off of the Pi4. It is critical the screen has a separate power feed as it pulls 0.6A, additionally the LTE modem is wired to this device as they can also pull quite a bit of power when they are establishing connections. They claim the UPS device itself is good for 6A.
4x Samsung 21700 Batteries	Used for the UPS above.
Atolla 4-Port USB 3.0 HUB	Internal USB powered hub directly off of the UPS 5V output and stripped of its outer shell.
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 HUB	Used for the USB 2.0 front I/O. This device stripped of its enclosure literally cut in half without issue. I needed reduce it to two ports due to space restrictions in my design.
Waveshare 1024x600 Panel	60hz Display. This panel has lots of features for some future changes to this build (touch, built in amp, audio passthru to name a few). Biggest drawback is its thickness due to connectors on the back of the PCB. This is what caused the screen carrier on this project to be so deep.
Super Mini Wired Keyboard	The keyboard itself. It was stripped of its outer shell, made a custom length USB 2.0 cable, and soldered the cables directly to the PCB to bypass the connector. Tough to type on, but smallest keyboard I could find short of a custom built solution.
Perixx USB Touchpad	The slideout trackpad. This device received a custom length cable as well.
USB Mini Speakers/AMP	This device consisted of two speakers and an amp. I removed the components from their case, fitted them to my build, reduced the USB connector length and extended some of the speaker wires. They claim these are 0.5w speakers (each).
ELEGOO Oled Display	This is the front OLED display. They came in packs of three.
120GB SSD	Our main and only drive currently. Cheapest SSD I could find given the market. This was also stripped of its case. I was happy to find M2.5 holes on the PCB when I opened it up as well as a very small footprint.
HiLetgo RS232 Modules	This is the module for the COM port on the back of the build. Also nice to see these came in packs of five.
Noctua Fan 10mm*40mm	I had this kicking around from past PC building projects, it was perfect for the build. Plenty of cheaper solutions out there however.
EM7455 Modem	The WWAN modem that is attached to the below M.2 to USB modem adapter.
M.2 to USB Modem Adapter	The modem above sits in this adapter. This adapter has a SIM slot in it. Then it is wired directly to the USB internal powered hub.

Cables and Connectors

Item	Notes
Cellularize USB C Extender	Used at the UPS charging port at the Nomad top cover to reach the cover level.
90 Degree USB Adapter	Comes off the 5V UPS power out → to Type A 5V Pigtail → dupont male to feed hub power.
90 Degree Micro USB Cable	Used for screen power. From the internal hub with Typa-A to the displays power port (power only). This cable was cut to size and treated with a heat gun to train it's shape.
USB Type A Power Pigtails	These were used at the Type-A side of the displays power feed as well as for the 90 degree USB adapter for hub power.
USB Type A Data Pigtails	Similar to the above but support data as well as power. I did not actually purchase these for the build, I had plenty of spare USB cables lying about that I was able to use and cut to size as needed.
90 Degree USB2.0 Extension Cable	Used from the Modem to the hub. this is one of three cables that I did not cut down or splice in fear of data integrity issues. The female side of this required filing at the rubber coating due to space issues.
90 Degree Right Angle HDMI to Micro HDMI	This goes from the display to the Pi via Micro to Full HDMI female/female adapter.
StarTech SATA to USB Adapter	This is used for our boot drive. This goes from the Pi's USB 3.0 port to the SSD. I tested two of these with the Pi4 and had better luck with this model. Once again, this one of the few cables I did not cut to length on this project.
Seadream Angled Micro HDMI to HDMI Cable	This comes directly out of the Pi4 Micro HDMI display out. The cable shape was perfect despite some filing to the connector to free up ~2mm of space. The secondary side of this if full HDMI cable which required a female/female adapter to marry it to the screen's HDMI cable.
Micro HDMI female to HDMI female adapter	Used between the panel’s HDMI cable and Pi HDMI cable as part of that hardware stack. Three total components required for display and mounted to a 3D printed carrier enclosure.
Micro JST-PH Connectors	I used these to extend the speaker cables inside to device to the amp.
Dupont Connectors Preterminated/Pigtails	Used in various places. Internal hub power, fan, Pi headers, front OLED, momentary switch, etc.
Momentary Switch	Used for Pi power at the front panel. I liked the industrial look of these, but they caused a lot of clearance issues due to depth.
2x 6dBi Male Antennas	Used for the WWAN Modem antennas.
Raspi4 Heatsink Kit	Used only the heatsinks for CPU, memory, and USB controller. I omitted the copper plate that came with this set, it seemed clumsy.

Hardware and Misc.

Item	Notes
Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel	Used to set all standoffs, the color backing for the logo, and to mount the magnets in place.
Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242	Used sparingly at the antenna threads. Intended on using this at the hinge locations as well, but I need to be able to easily remove this for some future changes to come.
M3*6 Female Standoffs	These are used throughout the majority of the project with some exceptions listed below.
M3*10 Screws Black Stainless	Used most everywhere in the build aside from some locations listed below.
M3*10 Screws Stainless	Used at the hinges and some internal locations.
M3 Brass Kit	Used mainly the M3*6 screws in this kit to lock in the keyboard, screen, and screen cover as well as some nuts to screw down the front cover.
M3 Nylon Kit	Used misc M3 nylon where I found cutting screws to length was beneficial or where I needed something longer than 10mm such as fan install.
M2.5 Nylon Set	Used just a few pieces from this kit to attach the USB-C charging port to the top cover.
M2.5 Brass Set	I used one M2.5*6 female standoff in this set for the UPS main power switch mechanism on the underside of the top cover. I could have used at the SSD location as well but didn't have this in hand at that time.
M2.5*10 Screws	I used one M2.5*10 to affix the UPS main switch to the internal switching mechanism. These were also used to mount the Pi/UPS to the back plane.
Fan Grills/Speaker Grills	Intended for the fan grill only but they ended up fitting perfectly over the speakers as well.
Torque Hinges .15n.M	Used for the screen hinge. Unfortunately could not find a 2-hole variant of this. I prototyped with .3n.M 2-hole hinges prior, but they were far too stiff.
Rustoleum 2x Clear Matte Paint	Not required for a PLA only build, but I used PETG in some locations and it tends to print glossy. A few coats of this were applied at those locations.
SUNLU PLA	Used for the majority of the build. Olive Green was purchased for accent colors. I used SUNLU for consistency as I did not want to introduce more 3D printing variables as the project progressed. I received two rolls of this product that had tangled filament in the roll directly from the manufacturer.
SUNLU PETG	I had this on hand and used it for some accent colors. The intention was to do the final print in PETG but I was unhappy with the finish and the flex that PETG introduced to some pieces, however, it is a safer choice for this type of build due to heat and impact resistance.
Rubber Feet	Used on the bottom of the chassis for grip.
Magnets	I utilized 3x 10mm magnets for the trackpad holds. 2x 8mm magnets at the screen carrier and 2x 8mm magnets in the chassis to lock the screen in a closed position.
1mm Hobby Foam	See build-up section for where I used this. It was used all over for flexible support or to keep things tight without introducing glues and such.
2mm Hobby Foam	See build-up section for where I used this. It was used all over for flexible support or to keep things tight without introducing glues and such.